Useless types of insurance to avoid like the plague

Here’s is a good link from Bankrate.com on 14 types of useless insurance to avoid.  It’s good information and ties in with the article I wrote recently on auto insurance (and how a saved a bunch of money on my car insurance by switching to GEICO…)

The main moral of the story linked below is that for any event related to your death, you should just buy adequate life insurance (likely term life, which I recommend.)  For property, often your car insurance, homeowner’s/rental insurance, or sometimes your credit card will cover you.  Often your employer has some types of insurance (life, disability) built into your compensation package gratis; check this out as well.

As a follow-up, here’s a brief introduction to life insurance on ‘Get Rich Slowly’.  Again, for 95% of people, I recommend using Term Life if you have dependents (and NO life insurance if you DON’T have dependents.)

I just saved $160 per year on my car insurance by switching to GEICO! (No, really, I did.)

What do Warren Buffett, a green gecko, and an Indian blogger dude all have in common?  They all suggested I’d save money on my car insurance by switching to GEICO… and they were right!  I’ll be honest, I was skeptical and sloth-like in seriously investigating how I could save more money on my auto insurance, but thanks to Ramit Sethi’s motivating tip on how to have money on auto insurance, I searched around and found a better deal in about 45 minutes when I stumbled upon and filled out GEICO’s online quote process.

How can you save money on your insurance?

First, read the above-linked article by Sethi.

Second, read another link within that post that goes over how much coverage you should have.

Next, call up a couple of reputable firms and get quotes (or do it online.  You could start with esurance, which I used; followed up by GEICO.)

One thing I DIDN’T do, that I should have, was call my previous (as of today) insurance company and make sure I had the lowest possible rate based on available discounts (like maybe they weren’t including the fact that my wife and I have low-risk occupations, teacher & engineer.)

Coverage mumbo-jumbo

A few tips on deciding what type of coverage and limits to get: most states (like Washington, my home) mandate that you have liability insurance to cover accidents where you’re at fault.  There are two types of this: Bodily & Property.  Bodily liability insures passengers in your car and those in the car you hit.  The limits are given as two numbers, per person and per accident.  I have $100K/$300K (typical for many, but maybe too much if you have few assets (no home) and have a low net worth/salary.)   This means I’m insured up to $100K in medical bills, etc per person and up to $300K per accident.

Property liability covers the non-living things that you hit (typically a car, or God-forbid, you blind-drunk fool, a house.)  A typical limit is $50,000 per accident.  I got $100K because the difference was only ~$4 more per year for both me and my wife.  (So if I wreck your new Lexus, you don’t have to sue me; my insurance will cover it!)

In addition to liability, there’s Collision, which pays for damage you cause to your own car.  Comprehensive covers damage due to other causes like theft, vandalism, natural disasters etc.  Both of these have deductibles, often $500, which you must pay yourself before your insurance pays for anything above that.  One way to lower your premiums is to raise your deductible to, say, $1000 (but make sure you have an ample emergency fund to cover this if you need to.)

Another way to lower your premium in a big way is to drop Collision/Comprehensive entirely.  If you have an older car, you might want to do this.  Apparently, the rule of thumb is to drop your Collision &/or Comprehensive coverage when your yearly Collision premium is 10% or greater than the value of your car.  I would also add that you should bulk up your emergency fund/short-term savings to include the price of a new (used) car.  My wife and I drive relatively inexpensive cars, >7 year-old sedans worth about $5000 apiece, so we dropped Collision completely.  Also, with our short-term savings, we could cover the price of replacement cars should something happen to either of ours.

Of course, having a safe driving record is the best way to lower your auto insurance premium, so be careful on the road and save money.

Back to GEICO

So what did I do?  I put my current policy in front of me (which I found online at Progressive.com.  If you’re not insured through Progressive, you probably won’t find your policy there…)  My Progressive policy was $383 per 6 months.  Next, I called up Ameriprise to see if I could get a good deal via my Costco membership.  I couldn’t; their quote was $567!

Then, I checked out GEICO and was quoted $303.  I was stoked at this point, but restrained myself from signing up instantaneously until I did a search on esurance (which I really should’ve done first, since it searches multiple sites.)  This returned $336.  Go GEICO!  I signed up for everything online and had new insurance in ~30 more minutes!

$160 in savings per year for about 2 hours of reading and workI highly recommend you check out your insurance options TODAY.

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Description of coverages from Allstate.com’s website (that’s not an endorsement; I just happened to search and found their definitions first!):

Protection for People, Property, and the Unexpected

Bodily Injury Liability Coverage

If people are injured in an accident that’s your fault, Bodily Injury Liability coverage helps protect you from bills that can include:

  • Emergency aid at the scene
  • Medical expenses for bodily injury
  • Medical services for sickness or disease
  • Compensation for loss of income
  • Funeral expenses
  • Legal defense fees and/or bail bonds for anyone listed on your policy
  • Other expenses not listed here

[...]

Property Damage Liability Coverage

If another driver’s property is damaged in an accident that’s your fault, Property Damage can help pay for their:

  • Structural damage to homes, storefronts, etc.
  • Repair or replacement costs for other stationary objects
  • Vehicle repair or replacement costs

It can also help keep your assets safe in the event of a lawsuit resulting from a covered accident.

[...]

Other Coverages

Choose any of the following options that might suit your individual circumstances best and build an auto insurance policy that helps fit your needs.

Collision Coverage helps pay for repairs or replacement to your car if you’re in a covered accident that involves other vehicles or stationary objects.

Comprehensive Coverage helps pay for covered losses caused by natural disasters, theft, vandalism, or other similar events.

Underinsured/Uninsured Motorist Coverage helps protect you if the covered accident was another driver’s fault and he/she either has no auto insurance, or not enough insurance to cover the expenses.

Medical Payments Coverage helps pay medical bills if you or your passengers are hurt in a covered accident. This option may also cover other members of your family when they’re driving the insured car.

Personal Injury Protection typically helps reimburse you for lost income, child care expenses, medical expenses, and other similar things if you’re hurt in a covered accident. (Personal Injury protection is not available in some states)

Limits and Deductibles will apply to certain types of coverage. Your Limits and Deductibles determine how much your insurance company will pay and how much you’ll have to pay when you make a claim for a covered accident.

Health insurance: Do I need it? (YES!) How can I pay less for it? (Plus an intro to the triple-tax-advantaged Health Savings Account [HSA])

As health care costs in America continue to soar, so do health care insurance premiums.  The fortunate ones have access to quality, affordable, employer-sponsored group health insurance.  Those that are not so lucky?  Well, let’s just say your affordable options are somewhat limited (assuming you’re not independently wealthy and don’t want to “self-insure.”)

What does a “normal” health insurance policy cost for an individual?

A quick search on ehealthinsurance.com returns several plans with a wide range of premiums, coinsurance percentages, out-of-pocket maximums and coverages.***  The search I performed assumes that the policy holder (the person who’s buying the insurance) is a male non-smoker who lives in North Seattle and is 25 years old.  (Premium prices for a person who is 55 are in parentheses right next to our sample 25 year-old’s monthly premiums.)

Our sample person would pay $226 ($431) per month for a policy with a $500 deductible, 20% coinsurance after the deductible, and an out-of-pocket maximum of $4,500 (including deductible.)  The first 1-5 per year office visits to a primary doctor or specialist are exempted from the deductible.  All our person would have to cover is the $30 copayment (or “copay”, a typically small payment towards your health care per office visit.)  Also, prescription drugs are covered at a $20-$40 copay.

Health insurance is expensive!  How can I lower my premiums?

If that $226 ($431) monthly premium sounds pretty hefty to you (adding up to $2712 ($5172) per year), there are alternatives.  The easiest way to lower any kind of insurance premium is to increase your deductible.  This means that if you do use your insurance, more of the upfront costs will be born by you.  The benefit is that if you’re relatively healthy, you may not pay much out of pocket for health care, saving yourself the difference in premiums.  High-deductible health insurance is also referred to as “catastrophic” health insurance.  I.e: this type of insurance doesn’t pay much if anything for the small stuff, but if something terrible happens to you and you wind up in the hospital for a few days, you won’t be wiped out financially.

If we run our male 25-year old (55 year-old) search for high-deductible plans we find one with a $2,000 deductible, 10% coinsurance after the deductible, and an out-of-pocket maximum of $5,100 (including deductible.)  However, we don’t find any deductible exemptions for office visits on this policy.  Also, prescription drugs aren’t covered at all (which may be a consideration for our sample 55 year-old person.)

What’s the upside to the higher deductible (and out-of-pocket maximum) and the reduced benefits on this catastrophic policy?  Premiums are less than 30% (40%) of the lower-deductible policy at $65 ($168) per month.  Comparing our lower deductible and high-deductible policies, those premium differences amount to $1,932 ($3,156) per year in savings.  If you rarely go to the doctor, that could make a pretty big difference to you over the years, especially if you’re investing the difference and earning returns on that money each year.

Health Savings Accounts – how HSAs can help those considering high-deductible health insurance

The government has created a tax-advantaged device that might make high-deductible health insurance even more attractive to you.  This vehicle is called a Health Savings Account (HSA.)

The idea behind a Health Savings Account is fairly simple:

Step 1) An individual or family purchases a high-deductible (greater than $1,100 for individuals in 2007) health insurance option from any carrier they like (including your employer.)  The $1,100 minimum deductible does NOT apply to preventative services.  Thus, you could have a plan that waives it’s deductible for routine office exams and immunizations that still qualifies for an HSA.  Also, the out-of-pocket maximum for an HSA-eligible plan must be less than $5,500 (for an individual in 2007.)

Step 2) The same individual or family opens up an HSA, into which they can contribute up to the annual amount stipulated by the IRS.  For 2008, those annual statutory limits are $2,900 per individual and $5,800 per family.

Benefits of an HSA – Triple tax-advantaged!

- You can deduct contributions that you make to the HSA from your taxes (without having to itemize.)  (Count ‘em, 1 tax advantages…)  Also, you can invest in whatever you want, like a personal IRA.  In theory, any provider of IRAs is eligible to offer HSAs.  In practice, however, I haven’t heard of any brokerages or mutual fund houses that offer HSAs directly (but hopefully that will change as the HSA becomes more popular and widely known.)

- Your contributions remain in your account from year to year until you use them (unlike Flexible Savings Accounts which are often “use it or lose it” for a given year.)

- The interest or other earnings on the assets in the account are tax free.  (2 tax advantages…)

- Distributions are tax free if you pay for documented qualified medical expenses (3 tax advantages!) These expenses can include medical/dental/vision/chiropractic services, over-the-counter and prescription drugs, medical hardware like eyeglasses and hearing aids and long-term care insurance premiums (however, generally you cannot treat insurance premiums as qualified medical expenses for HSAs.)

If you use the money for something other than qualified medical expenses, you will pay a 10% fee on the money and income taxes.  However, if you are 65 or older or disabled, you can withdraw the money for whatever you like and only pay regular income tax (avoiding the 10% penalty, making the HSA similar to a Traditional IRA or 401k.)  After 65, you continue to withdraw your HSA money tax-free to pay for medical expenses.

Furthermore, if the policyholder ends their HSA-eligible insurance coverage, he or she loses eligibility to deposit further funds, but funds already in the HSA remain available for use (1).  Your HSA is also “portable” in that it stays with you if you change employers or stop working.

In order to qualify for an HSA, you must be enrolled in a high deductible health plan (HDHP), you can’t be enrolled in Medicare, and you can’t be claimed as a dependent on someone else’s tax return for the year you enroll/contribute.

Conclusion

Health insurance can be tricky and somewhat complicated.  Besides looking at the financial side of things (premiums, coinsurance, out-of-pocket maximums) you need to be especially careful at reading through a potential policy to understand everything that’s covered, and more importantly, what isn’t.

HSAs are one way that a person might be able to save on health care costs.  However, to benefit you should be healthy (i.e.: need the doctor rarely in the future), in a tax bracket where the tax savings will give you a nice benefit, and making enough money and have the discipline to invest in your HSA.  Doing so successfully could result in significantly lower health insurance premiums, while allowing your HSA to grow tax-free until you either need it for medical expenses down the line, or you use it like a 401k/IRA after you turn 65.

Regardless of which health care option you choose for yourself or your family, make sure you understand it and make sure you enroll in one of those options!  Due to the high cost of health care, and the likelihood that something can happen to you at any moment, you can’t afford NOT to buy health insurance.  You may feel young and invincible (I sure do!), but all it takes is a car wreck or a sports accident to lay you up.  Often times these circumstances are completely beyond our control.  Your entire savings and assets could be wiped out (and you could accrue significant debt) by a few days stay at a hospital.

So, stay healthy (both physically and financially)!  Eat right, exercise, invest early and often and make sure you have health insurance to protect yourself and your family.

[To learn more about HSAs, check out the IRS's Publication 969.]

***”Coinsurance” is the % of your covered health care costs that YOU will pay for AFTER you pay costs up to the amount of the deductible. (Therefore, if your coinsurance is 15%, you pay 15% of the costs after you pay the deductible amount and your health insurance company pays the balance of 85%.)

The policy’s annual “deductible” is the amount of health care costs that you will have to incur (per year) before your insurance company will help pay some of them.

The annual “Out-of-pocket maximum” is the total amount of money that you might be liable for, in one year, should you have to pay that much in health care costs that year.  This number sometimes includes the deductible and sometimes does not.

The monthly “premiums” equate to the amount you must pay to maintain your health insurance coverage.  For a given policy, premiums generally go up as you get older, as it becomes more likely that you will incur health care costs that your insurance provider will have to cover.

Here’s an example to show how all these parts of your health insurance policy work together: Let’s say Joe N. Shured has a policy which features a $1000 deductible and 20% coinsurance after that, with an out-of-pocket maximum of $5000, which includes the deductible.

In 2008, Joe goes in for a routine checkup which costs $250.  Since this amount is below his annual $1000 deductible, Joe pays for the whole $250 out of his own pocket.  Later in the same year, Joe breaks his arm skiing and has to go in for X-rays, a cast, etc.  His total bills for the broken arm are  $6750.  Since Joe had already paid $250 towards his deductible, the first $750 of his broken arm bills also goes towards the $1000 annual deductible (which he pays all himself.)  Now that Joe has paid health care costs in 2008 equal to his deductible, the coinsurance of 20% kicks in.  Joe therefore pays 20% of the remaining $6000 balance, which equals $1200.  His insurance company picks up the tab for the remaining $4800 (assuming his policy covers those types of medical expenses; always read your policy carefully!)

To date, in 2008 Joe has paid $1000 for the deductible plus $1200 after the coinsurance kicks in for an out-of-pocket total of $2200.  His insurance company has paid $4800 (for a total of $7000 in medical bills in 2008.)  Let’s say that Joe, the clumsly being that he is, falls down a flight of stairs later in 2008 and breaks both legs.  These leg bills come to a total of $20,000, after a couple days stay in the hospital.  At 20% coinsurance, you might think Joe would have to pay $4,000, but notice that Joe already has paid $2,200 out-of-pocket medical expenses this year.  Because Joe’s policy has an out-of-pocket maximum (including deductible in our example) of $5,000, Joe only has to pay $2,800 of the leg bills out-of-pocket.  (Because $2,200 + $2,800 = $5,000.)  His insurance company must pay the remaining $17,200 of bills.

Joe finally makes it out of 2008 without anymore scrapes.  However, on Jan 2nd of 2009, Joe celebrates State U’s touchdown a little too violently and gives himself a hernia.  His hospital bill for this is $225.  Since Joe is in a new calendar year, his deductible has reset to $1000 again, so Joe must pay the whole $225 himself.  (Joe’s annual out-of-pocket maximum is also back at $5000 for 2009.)

(1) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Health_savings_account